Friday, January 15, 2010

Story collage, Month 1

I'm not a huge photo buff, but each week here, I seem to collect a few random photos of moments that have stories attached to them. Here are a few snapshots from the past month in Kombo. (Kombo is the generic name for the urban region we live in; it's kind of like saying "the Bay Area.")


Once our house feels "finished," I'll post a lot more house photos, inside and out. In the meantime, though, here's a "view from the roof" shot to give you a sense of why I love the roof. Our latest endeavor, spearheaded by Doug, is to build a simply canopy for the roof so we can sit in the shade. Roof party, anyone? 

 

Last week, Rose and I went to Kairaba Avenue (think El Camino Real) to take cloth to our tailor to get clothes made. On our way there, we discovered that the road was teeming with schoolchildren in uniforms of every color, waving flags and occasionally breaking into cheer. Police officers had cleared the streets of traffic, and we waited for awhile in the shade to see if we'd get to see the motorcade that everyone was waiting for. But after a half hour or so, we lost interest, and went to ask our tailor what was going on. She told us that the president of Senegal was coming to town.


I've been curious about a large sunken area (we've nicknamed it The Canyon and The Dump) not far from our house, so I went to investigate. It is indeed a small canyon-ish place with hills and vallies that has become a de facto dump (though there is also an official dump in a different area of town). I ran into a group of wild pigs rooting around in the trash; one even posed nicely for this picture. I was also surprised and horrified to discover that people live in The Dump, too. You can't see their houses too well in this photo, but they live in buildings made of mud bricks with corrugated tin roofs. Their laundry is strung up on lines above the trash, and they even have little gardens growing. Oddly enough, their houses look bigger and better equipped than our huts in the village, though I'm still sad about the fact that they live surrounded by so much trash. And let's not talk about how I felt when I saw a little kid rummaging through a big trash heap. I guess I shouldn't have been surprised; the villagers in Sanchin Daxaar were only too eager to make use of our trash, which made us feel guilty and a bit creeped out. It's weird to throw away a soda can (sorry, people, there's no recycling here), and then to walk out of your hut the next morning and see a little kid drinking out of it. (Yes, that actually happened.) We compromised by saving up all of our "useful" trash (water bottles, juice cans, cereal boxes, milk powder container, etc.), and giving it to our host family at the end of our stay, since we just couldn't get comfortable with the idea of actually watching people use our trash while we were still living there.


It feels a bit strange to follow the "people living in a trash heap" photo with a photo of our car; perhaps, were I more awake right now, I'd spend some more time pondering the extremities and inequities that characterize life here. In any case, here's Doug in our spiffy car. I'm having fun learning to drive a stick shift, and Rose and Doug are both excellent teachers. Yesterday, Doug spent EIGHT hours running around town to get the necessary stickers and permits we need to actually drive it around town. Before that, we'd been stopped several times for having overly-tinted windows and for not having the appropriate police stickers on our windshield. But now our car is bestickered and tint-free, so we should be good to go!



Rose, aka Travel Chef, is a maven of creativity in the kitchen. Here, she demonstrates her ability to turn leek roots into body hair.


In addition to cracking me up in the kitchen, Rose has also been teaching me to cook some awesome dishes. This is a picture of us last night, when she cooked Spring Pasta (aka pasta with a yummy, light vegetable sauce instead of red sauce). It was damn good, people! She has also introduced us to the many pleasures of fresh feta cheese, which they sell at several local grocery stores. It tastes so much better fresh than it does in those little crumbly bits back home!


Just like in the village, there are chickens wandering around all over the urban area, including on our street. Today, the neighborhood chicken and her chicks strolled into our compound while our workers were painting. Before I chased them out, I managed to snap a few photos. Paul, one of our workers, seemed amused, and commented on the fact that I was photographing the chickens. I explained that unless you're on a farm in the US, you generally don't find chickens wandering around in your front yard!



This afternoon, we hung out at the Bakau Fish Market with a fun Peace Corps Volunteer named Lindsay. Each afternoon, long fishing boats pull up close to shore and dozens of teenage boys with plastic rectangular buckets go splashing out into the waves to collect the fish. You can see people rushing out to meet a boat in the first photo, and a boy in a red shirt balancing a bucket of fish on his head in the center of the second photo. Behind him is a slightly younger tag-a-long boy who is about to jump up and steal a fish out of the older boy's bucket. We kept musing aloud about how surprising it was that there wasn't someone out there beating the little boys that were jumping up to steal the fish. Occasionally, the boy carrying the bucket would swing out an arm or a leg to try to smack the thief, but overall, the thieves managed to sneak away unscathed, since their targets had to focus all of their attention on not dropping their loads.

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Wednesday, January 13, 2010

Other brushes with celebrity

In my last post, I mentioned how we felt like celebrities in the village. What I forgot to mention is that I have moments of feeling like a celebrity here in the city, too.

Last Friday, we attended the swearing-in ceremony for the most recent group of Peace Corps Volunteers. They have spent the past 10 weeks living in training villages, where they've been learning local languages, preparing for their work in the country, and getting familiar with Gambian culture. They've also been living with D.lights for the past 5 weeks, and have given us lots of great feedback about the lights.

Their swearing-in ceremony took place at the U.S. Ambassador's house, which is a lush compound full of huge trees and gorgeous bougainvillea plants right on the beach. I thought our compound was big, but this place makes our house look like servants' quarters! The ceremony was filmed by the Gambian TV station, GRTS, and we felt a little uncomfortable about how often the TV cameraman filmed us. And given that GRTS is the country's only TV station, anyone who turned on their TV that night got a chance to enjoy the Peace Corps ceremony in its entirety. (A taxi driver told me that neighboring Senegal has a whopping 5 or 6 TV stations.)

That night at dinner, we got a phone call from Doug's Gambian friend Sainey, who told us he had just seen us on TV. Then my language teacher Modou text-messaged us to tell us about our TV appearance. And the next morning, our house painter was all excited about having seen us on TV, and told us that he'd pointed us out to his mom, and that we could visit the TV station and buy a copy of the program if we wanted.

To add to this feeling of celebrity, we picked up one of our two cars last weekend. It's a used sedan in great shape, and in Doug's words, it's pimptastic. Its windows are very darkly tinted, and as we drove around in it for the first time, Doug said he felt like a Cuban dictator. Today, we got stopped at a police checkpoint because apparently such dark tinting requires a permit from the police chief that we don't have. Oops! Luckily, a small bribe made the policeman happy enough to let us go, and we'll get our tinting paperwork sorted out tomorrow morning.

Saturday, January 9, 2010

Reflecting on life in the village

We've been back in the city for three weeks, but I've been avoiding my blog (and my email inbox!) because I don't know where to begin. Our house is still under construction, and we've been living with construction frustration for longer than we expected. But the workers are mostly working on painting the outside of the house now, and we're looking forward to kicking them out altogether in about a week!


Our time in the village was intense, hot, thought-provoking, and exhausting. We ended up staying for two weeks. Even though I really wanted to come home after the second day (the day I was sick), I'm really glad that we stayed. I'm not saying I want to go back there for a sleepover any time soon, but I appreciated the opportunity to live and exist and survive somewhere that is more radically different from my own life than anywhere else I've ever been. And now that we've been back in the city for awhile, I've had a chance to think about life in the village and what I learned while we were there.



Some of the things I learned were practical skills: I learned how to avoid splashing myself with urine water while squatting in the shower/peeing area for a bucket bath. I learned how to squat over a latrine, and didn't even miss once.  I learned how to wash dishes in the dirt, how to keep frogs from getting into our hut, and how to best kill the big spiders that showed up on the backyard fence every night. (Flipflops are better for this task than Chacos, as it turns out. You need a nice smooth shoe bottom that doesn't have any treads for the spiders to hide in, and then you smash the spider and give it a good smear before lifting the shoe.)


I learned that I would never want to be a celebrity. We didn't have any anonymity in the village: we stood out in every way, and every time we left our huts, someone wanted to talk to us or show us something or introduce us to someone else. Everywhere we walked, people would call our names and want to beckon us over, or at least exchange greetings with us. We developed a strategy of not stopping when people greeted us. Instead, we'd exchange the traditional greetings, but we'd keep on walking, since if we stopped, who knows how many people would want to greet us, or when we would have had a chance to start walking again?! (And trust me, when I'm walking to the latrine, I am not in the mood to stop for a million greetings.) We got so tired of the constant social interaction that we took to hiding out in Rose's hut in the afternoons, avoiding the worst of the heat as well as the attention. 



The silver lining of this suffocating cloud of celebrity is that I never felt unsafe out there in the middle of the bush, since at any given moment, probably a dozen people or more knew where I was. When Rose and I decided to take a walk to the neighboring village, it felt like a big adventure. We made sure to tell our host family where we were going so that no one would be concerned. But we needn't have worried: people from the neighboring village immediately spread the word that we had visited them, and by the time we returned home, it seemed like everyone in our own village knew where we had been. It's a small world!


At this point, you may be wondering why I'm glad we stayed in the village. I liked learning Wolof and getting to practice it with people every time I stepped outside. I liked walking out into the bush and watching the sunrise or the sunset over the vast expanse of land. I liked developing the strength, patience, and confidence to survive somewhere so foreign to me. But most of all, I liked connecting with the villagers, especially our host family and our favorite kids. 


When we first arrived, I felt like an anthropologist on a quest to learn more about Really Poor People Who Live in a Village. I felt awkward interacting with them, and I felt overwhelmed by everything that was new, hard, and dirty about their way of life. But as the days melted into one another, and as I communicated more with people, I slowly started to feel more connected to people. People greeted me, and I greeted them in return. I asked them simple questions about what they were doing, and they would explain their work to me. Kids called my name and tried to get me to dance, and they took me out to the fields to gather peanuts, and then laughed at my attempts to find peanuts in the dirt. We sat around the gas stove at night and drank hot sweet milk with people from our compound. And throughout it all, even though I still felt self-conscious about my wealth, my privilege, my skin, my clothes, and all of the other things that make my life different from theirs, I also started to connect with them as fellow human beings. For this, I am humbled and grateful.

We've taken many more photos than I could ever post on the blog, so here are the links to our photo albums from the past 2 months, so you can take a look! 


Christmas: http://tinyurl.com/gambiachristmas
Village life: http://tinyurl.com/villagelife
China: http://tinyurl.com/shenzhenchina